Made in Africa
Today, I want to explore what it means to buy 'Made in Africa' - beyond the hashtag and hype.
My personal experience of buying 'Made in Africa' (or what I thought was made in Africa) took place in 2017. I had asked (begged) a friend in Lagos to periodically make an obscene amount of purchases for me, who then sent them through an aunt to London.
The day I received the parcel, I was very excited; it was full of goodies from Fashpa, Zashadu, Wanger Ayu and a fourth nameless brand - which I will discuss later. So I took the bus 266 from Hammersmith to Cricklewood, periodically sheepishly grinning at my shiny Zashadu green oil slick handbag (as shown below).
On getting home, I unravelled all the items and sprawled them on the floor and began to painstakingly try on each piece of clothing.
'Made in what?!' I thought to myself. I have plenty of gorgeous items manufactured in but I didn't think these items would be one of them. Had I ...once again been hoodwinked? But it got me thinking about buying Nigerian… maybe they meant ‘Buy (from a) Nigerian; Grow the Naira (in their pocket). Maybe.
So this got me thinking; what does buying Made in Africa really mean?
I had just bought items from a reputable brand that propagated then good news of buying made in Africa goods but WAS NOT applying it to their own business processes? Shamelessly profiting from the creativity of African individuals. Simultaneously, pretending to reimburse a community and exploiting a member of the same community. I'm confused. Am I being hoodwinked?
Having worked with African businesses for 7+ years, I am aware African fashion and textile industry experiences unique and complex business challenges that disrupt the creation and manufacturing of goods more than countries in the west, but this is misleading.
The ‘made in’ label was a law enacted by the British Government in 1887 in order to protect counterfeit, lower quality goods from entering Britain from foreign countries and promote the consumption of local produce. This ‘Made in’ concept still influences purchasing behaviour of both goods and services from premium and luxury brands due to the association of skill and expertise to certain geographic locations but is definitely not as absolute in impact as it has been in the past. However, a bill may need to be reintroduced to prevent the 'made in' label from being exploited by people who have no interest in developing Africa and are not manufacturing or developing anything inside of *The AF word* Africa.
Similar to the UK, the 'Made in Africa' concept was promoted to increase the domestic consumption of goods. And not to exploit But following my encounter with a brand promoting the made in Nigeria but manufacturing in
Production limitations, complications in supply chain, high staff turnover and infrastructural deficiencies has meant that manufacturing textiles and fashion businesses have relocated.
Sarah Diouf is the owner of brand Tongoro who manufactures in the heart of Senegal's bustling capital, Dakar. Tongoro's end-to-end production takes place exclusively in Dakar and creates a compelling story for manufacturing in Africa.
Her message and ethos is simple; making Africa become known for excellence in all facets of the creative world. Her recent documentary, aptly titled 'MADE IN AFRICA - A DOCUMENTARY'.
I hope she can inspire other African individuals to have the esteem to pursue their dreams. Increase their self esteem and inspire others the way way she has me.
Further south in the continent, Thebe Magugu - Winner of the 2019 LVMH ( a French luxury brand) prize is also sending a message to the rest of the world on the skill and craftsmanship involved in creating African luxury. Having recently also debuted at Paris Fashion Week 2020 prior to the country's lockdown, his message doesn't just promote Made in Africa from a functional perspective, but also its ability to embody luxury in its entirety.
My dream and hope is to see an equally successful African brand with the same prestige and presence afforded to LVMH thriving in Africa.
Both brands reflect two markets (premium and luxury) at different ends of the consumer's budget constraints who are able to manufacture in two completely different parts of Africa. It is doable. But as with anything, not without costs.
Manufacturing within the continent is the ideal situation for brands, but with infrequent electricity, limited access to raw materials and larger varied fabric availability, poor staff retention and weak intellectual property rights, the costs can be significant for brands who opt for a more 'accessible' price point.
Low margins in retail means business decisions are based significantly on cost - or rather, the mitigation of cost. With so many components involved in the production of fashion goods, buying 'Made in Africa' takes on a different, broader interpretation.
In the UK, car manufacturing companies are owned by Foreign companies. This doesn't diminish the Japanese(ness) or American(ness) of the company - a position which some African brands who have chosen to outsource production take when faux authenticity is discussed. The brand's ethos, objectives and owners remain fully African but bypass the the varied and dynamic pitfalls of domestic manufacturing.
Yes, buying Made in Africa is doable as many designers on the continent have shown- but that has come at an often very hefty price to the business or the owner.
In the global, inter-connected world we have evolved into, utilising the availability of resources to produce goods that meet international standards makes practical sense and ensures that customers experience the highest quality standards.Some countries have developed the skill of high quality, low cost productions with near seamless sourcing and shipping supply chain.
Summary
While the 'made in Africa' concept can encompass an array of interpretations, the presumption remains the same - that the product is made (manufactured) in Africa. The lack of definition, resulting in the broadening to incorporate African business owners who have found ways to manufacture more efficiently outside the continent may create an unintended subterfuge.
The resilience and commitment of artists and fashion/ textile businesses such as Sarah Diouf, Kenneth Ize, Wanger Ayu, Christie Brown, Bubu Ogisi (below), Casablanca and countless others to manufacture anywhere on the continent is commendable and should be encouraged.
Collaboration can help play a key role in creating synergies in the creative ecosystem. One example is Northern African countries such as Morocco and Egypt have utilised their proximity to Europe to position themselves as a near sourcing alternative. In 2018 alone, manufacturing accounted for 18% of investment into Morocco.
Made in Africa means supporting industries but also supporting the entrepreneurs, the designers, the curators who are or manufacture in Africa. Buying Made in Africa goes beyond the manufacturing process; it is the ideation, the curation, the conceptualising.
However, to avoid misrepresentation, brands across the continent should be transparent in what buying 'Made in Africa' in the context of their brand really means.
" A good relationship is based on truth and honesty. Not just being understood but understanding. Equity and Equality. These three statements are equally important."
I love this new initiative. Incredible. I love the design and although this is new… I believe this could be a new beginning. Just the beginning I hope :D